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The Murray Arms Hotel

From $135/night • Score: 4.7★ (1640 reviews)

Exterior 1Exterior 2Interior 1Interior 2Surroundings

First Impressions & Architecture

Approaching St Margaret's Hope on the enchanting Orkney island of South Ronaldsay feels akin to stepping into a living maritime canvas. Nestled securely against the curve of a sheltered fishing harbour, the village presents a postcard-perfect tableau of whitewashed stone cottages, undulating slate roofs, and bobbing fishing skiffs. Rising gracefully from this historic waterfront is The Murray Arms Hotel, a distinguished 19th-century coaching inn that has served as the social and architectural anchor of the community for generations. As a luxury travel journalist accustomed to the polished artifice of contemporary mega-resorts, arriving at a property rooted so deeply in the rugged topography and authentic maritime history of the Scottish Isles is an invigorating, grounding experience.

The exterior of The Murray Arms is an exemplar of vernacular Orcadian architecture. Thick, weathered stone walls—built to withstand the bracing Atlantic gales and North Sea squalls—are finished in a crisp, traditional white harling that gleams brilliantly under the shifting northern light. Deep-set timber sash windows punctuate the facade, offering clandestine glimpses of the bustling harbour activity just beyond the threshold. The roofline, pitched steeply and clad in local slate, speaks to an era when craftsmanship was dictated by utility and endurance. Yet, despite its formidable defensive posture against the elements, the inn exudes an immediate, palpable warmth. A classic, understated sign hangs above the welcoming entrance, hinting at the centuries of hospitality contained within.

Crossing the threshold is an exercise in temporal transition. The salt-kissed coastal air is instantly replaced by the rich, comforting aromas of polished wood, roasting meats from the kitchen, and the unmistakable, inviting crackle of an open peat fire. The lobby and communal spaces eschew sterile modern minimalist trends in favor of an authentic, time-layered aesthetic. Original stone flagstones, worn smooth by the footsteps of countless nineteenth-century merchants, sailors, and weary travelers, pave the corridors. Low-beamed ceilings crafted from aged timber frame intimate seating areas where plush, tartan-upholstered armchairs invite lingering. The overall design narrative does not attempt to manufacture heritage; rather, it honors it, preserving the structural integrity and soul of a classic Scottish coaching inn while integrating the discreet modern comforts expected by the discerning contemporary voyager.

The Room Experience

Accommodations at The Murray Arms bridge the gap between historic authenticity and modern comfort, providing a restorative sanctuary after a day spent exploring Orkney’s dramatic coastlands and Neolithic wonders. Ascending the creaking, carpeted timber staircase to the upper floors reveals a collection of thoughtfully appointed en-suite rooms, each bearing its own unique architectural quirks dictated by the building’s nineteenth-century footprint. My quarters for the duration of the stay offered an unobstructed vantage point looking directly out over the picturesque fishing harbour, a view that proved to be an endless source of quiet contemplation as the tides ebbed and flowed against the stone pier below.

The interior design of the guest room champions a sophisticated, rustic-chic palette inspired by the surrounding Orcadian landscape. Walls are painted in muted, heather-grey and deep maritime-navy tones that absorb the luminous, ethereal quality of northern light. Textile choices are unapologetically luxurious yet grounded in local tradition: heavy woolen throws in subtle herringbone patterns drape across the foot of the bed, while bespoke tweed cushions add texture and warmth. The bed itself is a masterpiece of restorative slumber, boasting a high-density orthopedic mattress, crisp high-thread-count Egyptian cotton linens, and a duvet so light yet insulating it feels akin to sleeping beneath a cloud. Flanked by industrial-chic bedside reading lamps and salvaged timber nightstands, the sleeping area successfully marries form and function.

Architectural details within the room are preserved with reverence. Deep window sills, formed by the substantial thickness of the stone exterior walls, offer the ideal perch for watching the morning mist lift off the bay with a steaming cup of freshly brewed artisan coffee in hand. Modern amenities are seamlessly integrated without disrupting the historic illusion. A flat-screen television is discreetly mounted against the wall, though it is easily forgotten in favor of the sensory theater unfolding outside the window. The en-suite bathroom, compact yet brilliantly optimized, features contemporary fixtures, a powerful walk-in rainfall shower with instant piping-hot water, plush oversized bathsheets, and a curated collection of locally sourced, organic botanical toiletries that pay homage to Orkney’s wild flora.

Signature Amenities & Atmosphere

The true luxury of The Murray Arms lies not in gold-plated fixtures or algorithmic concierges, but in its profound sense of place and the unhurried, genuine rhythm of island life it fosters. The heart and soul of the hotel’s social ecosystem is its magnificent hearth, where an open fireplace burns brightly throughout the day and well into the evening. This communal focal point draws guests and locals alike, creating an organic, convivial atmosphere where stories of ancient standing stones, rough channel crossings, and coastal wildlife sightings are freely exchanged over a dram of single malt whisky. It is a masterclass in hospitality design: a space that effortlessly dissolves the barriers between strangers, transforming them into a temporary community of explorers.

Beyond the hearth, the hotel serves as an exceptionally well-positioned base camp for discovery. Its standout geographic asset is its peerless convenience: located mere minutes from the Pentland Ferries terminal at St Margaret's Hope, the property offers seamless, stress-free vehicular transit to and from Gills Bay on mainland Scotland. For travelers navigating the intricacies of island hopping, this proximity eliminates the logistical friction often associated with remote travel. Yet, despite its nearness to the transport hub, the hotel remains an oasis of tranquility, untouched by the frantic energy typically found near transit nodes.

The atmosphere throughout the property is defined by an easygoing, unpretentious elegance. The staff operate with an intuitive, understated grace—embodying the legendary warmth of Orcadian hospitality without a hint of corporate stiffness. Whether offering impromptu advice on navigating the narrow cliffside roads to the Tomb of the Eagles, ensuring muddy hiking boots are quietly whisked away for cleaning, or providing a bespoke weather briefing for the day's archaeological excursions, the level of personalized care is exemplary. The Murray Arms understands that modern luxury is about autonomy, comfort, and emotional resonance; it provides the physical and psychological space required to truly unwind and disconnect from the relentless pace of urban existence.

Food, Drink & Local Nightlife

Culinary programming at The Murray Arms is a triumphant celebration of the bountiful terroir and pristine waters of the Orkney archipelago. The hotel’s acclaimed Seafood Bar is nothing short of a pilgrimage site for seafood aficionados, anchoring the local dining scene with an unwavering commitment to hyper-local sourcing. Sitting at the rustic wooden bar or at an intimate window table overlooking the harbour, diners are treated to a menu that reads like a love letter to South Ronaldsay’s fishermen and farmers. During my stay, the culinary highlights came fast and formidable: plump, exquisitely sweet South Ronaldsay scallops seared to golden perfection in herb butter; impeccably fresh dressed brown crab served with crusty artisanal sourdough; and catch-of-the-day preparations that showcased the sheer, unadulterated freshness of the North Atlantic harvest.

The beverage program is equally formidable, designed with a discerning eye toward regional provenance. The bar boasts an impressive roster of Orkney ales on tap—crafted by pioneering local breweries—alongside an extensive, thoughtfully curated collection of Scotch whiskies that pays fitting tribute to the nation’s liquid heritage. Sipping a peat-smoked single malt while peering out at the darkening waters of the bay, as fishing boats return to their moorings, is an quintessentially Scottish ritual that lingers long in the memory.

While St Margaret's Hope is a tranquil village rather than a bustling metropolis, the evening nightlife centered around The Murray Arms is vibrant and deeply authentic. Rather than synthesized entertainment, the nocturnal energy stems from the gentle hum of conversation in the bar, occasional impromptu acoustic folk music sessions by local troubadours, and the shared camaraderie of travelers comparing their itineraries. It is an environment that encourages slow drinking, deep listening, and total immersion in the unhurried cadence of island culture.

Who This Stay Is For

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