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The Anchorage

From $115/night • Score: 4.6★ (820 reviews)

Exterior 1Exterior 2Interior 1Interior 2Surroundings

Introduction: The Quiet Call of the North

There is a distinct rhythm to life in the Orkney Islands, a jagged archipelago where the North Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean, and time feels measured not by the ticking of a clock, but by the shifting tides and the endless pageant of the northern sky. Arriving in South Ronaldsay, the southernmost of the interconnected East Mainland islands, the journey invariably leads to the historic conservation village of St Margaret’s Hope. Here, nestled along the gentle curve of the bay, sits The Anchorage—a coastal stone guesthouse that defies the traditional luxury paradigm not by offering gilded excess, but by delivering an authentic, deeply grounding sense of place. At a modest £115 per night, this unassuming haven represents one of the finest value propositions in Scottish hospitality, proving that true luxury often lies in stillness, heritage, and uncompromising warmth.

As a hospitality critic who has traversed the globe reviewing hyper-exclusive resorts and five-star urban monuments, I am frequently reminded that opulence is subjective. While marble bathhouses and Michelin-starred tasting menus have their place, the modern discerning traveler increasingly craves sanctuary—a place to strip away the noise of the digital age and reconnect with nature and local culture. The Anchorage answers this call with quiet confidence. It is a property that respects its historic maritime surroundings, offering a masterclass in understated coastal living. From the moment one approaches its weathered stone façade, framed by the restless, slate-gray waters of the bay, the property exerts a magnetic, calming pull. This is not a hotel designed to dazzle with fleeting trends; it is a timeless refuge deeply rooted in the rugged soul of Orkney.

First Impressions & Architecture

The approach to St Margaret’s Hope is nothing short of cinematic. Named after Margaret, the Maid of Norway and Queen of Scots who tragically died in the village in 1290, the conservation area retains its medieval charm with winding lanes, steep-gabled historic stone cottages, and a protected natural harbor that has sheltered mariners for centuries. The Anchorage occupies a prime vantage point within this walkable-core setting, its traditional stone exterior blending seamlessly into the historic maritime streetscape. The architecture is resolutely Orcadian—built to withstand the bracing winds of the North while maximizing the interplay of Atlantic light.

Upon stepping across the threshold, the blustery island air is instantly replaced by an enveloping warmth. The interior design avoids the cliché of modern minimalist sterility, opting instead for a tasteful, maritime-inspired homeliness that honors the building's heritage. Whitewashed stone walls, natural wood accents, and subtle nautical touches create an immediate sense of coastal calm. The public areas are intimate, designed to encourage quiet contemplation rather than bustling socialization. Large, double-glazed windows act as living picture frames, offering uninterrupted vistas of the inner waters of the bay where fishing boats bob gently at their moorings.

The communal spaces feel less like a commercial guesthouse and more like the private seaside estate of an exceptionally hospitable local host. Original architectural quirks—low lintels, thick stone walls, and deeply recessed windowsills—serve as constant reminders of the building's storied past. Yet, there is nothing antiquated about the upkeep. The property is maintained to an impeccably high standard, a testament to the meticulous care of its custodians. Every surface is polished, every corner immaculate, establishing a standard of cleanliness that puts many high-end metropolitan hotels to shame. The sensory experience upon arrival is one of absolute serenity: the faint, comforting scent of sea salt mingling with the aroma of freshly baked goods, setting an uncompromisingly high tone for the days ahead.

The Room Experience

Ascending to the guest quarters, one finds that the theme of immaculate preservation and comfort continues unabated. The Anchorage boasts a curated collection of en-suite bedrooms, each designed to serve as a private sanctuary after a day of exploring neolithic landscapes and coastal cliffs. My room overlooked the tranquil expanse of the bay, providing a front-row seat to Orkney’s famous, ever-changing skyscapes—where brooding, charcoal clouds can part in a matter of minutes to reveal brilliant, crystalline shafts of amber light dancing across the water.

The interior aesthetic of the bedroom is deliberately pared-back, allowing the natural beauty outside the window to take center stage. Crisp, high-thread-count white linens dress a bed that offers an exceptionally restorative night’s sleep, flanked by sturdy wooden bedside tables and soft reading lamps. The color palette draws inspiration from the surrounding natural environment: muted heather purples, sandy duns, and deep sea-blues that echo the coastal panorama. There is an authentic charm in the details—a locally woven wool throw draped over the armchair, and framed black-and-white photographs of historic Orkney life adorning the walls.

Despite its historic shell, the room is thoroughly equipped with modern conveniences tailored to the contemporary traveler. High-speed, complimentary Wi-Fi is robust and reliable—a minor miracle in such a remote island setting—allowing guests to seamlessly share their journey or catch up on correspondence. A thoughtfully appointed refreshment station includes an electric kettle, a generous selection of fine teas, artisanal coffees, and locally made shortbread, offering a welcome ritual upon return from the chilly outdoors.

The en-suite bathroom, while compact, is a masterclass in spatial efficiency and spotless hygiene. Gleaming white tiles, powerful contemporary plumbing with instant hot water, and plush, oversized bath towels elevate the routine daily refresh into a spa-like experience. Premium botanical toiletries, fragranced with notes of coastal herbs and sea salt, pay homage to the local terroir. Sound insulation between rooms is impressively effective, ensuring that the only sound accompanying your slumber is the distant, rhythmic lull of the tide against the shore.

Signature Amenities & Atmosphere

The true luxury of The Anchorage lies not in an extensive list of corporate-style amenities, but in its atmosphere of profound peace and authentic connection. This is a guesthouse that understands the rhythm of the slow-travel movement. There are no crowded elevators, no generic fitness centers blaring techno music, and no impersonal concierge desks. Instead, the amenities are curated to enhance your immersion in the natural and cultural landscape of South Ronaldsay.

The atmosphere throughout the house is one of respectful tranquility. Guests tend to be fellow travelers seeking depth, history, and natural beauty—archaeology enthusiasts, landscape photographers, and writers looking for inspiration. In the evenings, the communal lounge becomes a quiet hub of reflection. You might find guests huddled over maps, tracing out routes to the Italian Chapel or the Ring of Brodgar, sharing tales of their day’s discoveries over a dram of Highland Park single malt. The proprietors foster this community spirit effortlessly, offering warm, unobtrusive hospitality that makes you feel less like a paying customer and more like an honored family guest.

Food, Drink & Local Nightlife

While The Anchorage does not operate a full-service dinner restaurant, its culinary offering centers around one of the most vital rituals of British hospitality: the morning meal. And what a masterclass it is. Served in a bright, sun-lit dining room overlooking the bay, the full cooked Orkney breakfast is an epicurean celebration of the islands' rich agricultural bounty.

Orkney is famed for its fertile soils and pristine waters, a fact that shines brilliantly on the breakfast plate. The feast features locally sourced farm eggs with yolks the color of marigold, thick-cut Scottish bacon with a rich, savory depth, and traditional Orkney black pudding—spiced and textured to perfection. Accompanying these heavy-hitters are locally baked breads and an array of homemade preserves, from tart rhubarb and ginger jam to sweet bramble jelly, crafted using berries harvested from the island hedgerows.

For those preferring a lighter start, the sideboard groan under the weight of fresh seasonal fruits, artisan yogurts, locally smoked salmon, and a selection of cereals. Paired with a bottomless cafetière of freshly brewed coffee or loose-leaf tea, it is a breakfast designed to fuel hours of windswept coastal exploration.

When evening falls, St Margaret’s Hope shifts into a restful, village mode. The local dining scene is charmingly intimate, reflecting the small-scale nature of the community. Within a gentle, picturesque stroll from the front door of The Anchorage, guests can find cozy village pubs and family-run eateries serving the freshest catches from local waters—think pan-seared scallops, plump langoustines, and locally landed cod, often accompanied by a pint of real ale or a curated selection of Scottish whiskies. The nightlife here is defined not by thumping nightclubs, but by fireside conversations, traditional folk music sessions in the local pub, and the peerless magic of the Orcadian twilight, where summer nights barely darken into true night.

Who This Stay Is For

The Anchorage occupies a very specific, highly desirable niche in the hospitality landscape. It is not trying to be a sprawling five-star resort with infinity pools and valet parking, nor is it a sterile budget motel. It is an authentic, beautifully curated coastal refuge tailored for a discerning demographic of travelers.

Practical Travel Notes

Planning a journey to the Orkney Islands requires a modicum of logistical forethought, but the rewards vastly outweigh the effort. To reach South Ronaldsay and The Anchorage, most travelers take the NorthLink Ferries service from Scrabster (near Thurso) to Stromness, or the Pentland Ferries crossing from Gills Bay to St Margaret’s Hope itself. In fact, arriving via Pentland Ferries deposits you practically on the doorstep of the village, making The Anchorage one of the most conveniently accessible guesthouses in the archipelago.

While the immediate village of St Margaret’s Hope is wonderfully walkable—boasting local shops, craft boutiques, and eateries within a short stroll—renting a car is highly recommended for exploring the wider Orkney mainland and its wealth of neolithic monuments, dramatic cliffs, and coastal RSPB reserves. Weather in the north of Scotland can be notoriously mercurial; packing in layers, including wind- and waterproof outerwear and sturdy walking boots, is essential regardless of the season. Bookings should be made well in advance, particularly during the luminous summer months when travelers from across the globe flock to experience the magic of the islands.